![]() I ended up having to buy a repalcement joystick as the "module" is itself and for whatever reason it decided to die. I think they even charged or jump started my battery.ĮDIT UPDATE: I forgot to edit my post back then, since I found it let me conclude my iDrive issue. I also have similar issue here, after taking my car from the body shop 3 weeks get in the car and it doesn't work. Hold up, when they say they need unit replaced are they talking only about the iDrive joystick? If so, how is it 1300$, the part is just about 350$ and takes 5 minutes to install. If any update on this issue please post it here to help. So I guess this is any software issue cause my Nav, Radio, Sound elc works just fine ![]() I was like what I have tried new unit and nothing. I have tried new unit and nothing I took it to the dealer for diagnostic and the told me the unit need to be replace cost 1313.21. I have same issue with my E90 after my battery dead I jumped the car and the iDrive controller completely not working. I wonder what else I can do with INPA and ISTA before I take everthing apart…Since all was good before I took battery off, I do not expect any issues with cables etc….any help is much appreciated! Never had any issues with the controller… Fuses were checked, CIC was reseted, MOST Ring config was saved in ISTA, battery was taken off 30+ minutes….īefore I took battery off all was perfectly fine. When all was finished and I reconnected the battery, my iDrive Controller did not work anymore. I took battery off to replace speakers in the door. Im replying here because I have similar issues in an E60. A few days later the tilt functions on the knob stopped working. The next day the haptic feedback on the shortcut buttons stopped working. After putting everything back together, the lights on the controller knob itself flashed, but never turned back on. ![]() Since having the tyre pressure pop up i've been unable to reset and is driving me nuts. So I did the crystal iDrive controller conversion. So what i'm going to try is to get some electrical cleaner and see if that would help. Went into the garage for the alternator and battery to be replaced, but later found that they had spilt liquid down near the controller and is quite sticky on the 4 pin wire where the connector is. What was it in the garage for? Any chance they worked under the center console? You can splice into the kcan bus (use a twisted pair from a cat-5 cable, and solder connections), and run a new connection to the controller if you need to, but I would try to find where the issue is. If there is nothing wrong with those, then the issue is with the kcan wires. I've had the SD card in my Mac, and there is loads of stuff on it folders files etc.The controller should have a 4 wire connector, GND/12v/KCan1-Low/KCan1-High - The first thing I would check is to make sure the GND is connecting to ground, and the 12v is actually getting 12v. BMW are telling me it's a £1138.00 radio. But, after entering my VIN number, no software downloads appear to be available for my head unit. I thought I might be able to flash the software myself via the update facility on the BMW website. They charged me £165.00 for finding out that head unit needed replacing, by the way. I was told they had tried to flash the software, but it failed with a message stating the head unit needed replacing. However, my mood improved when I was told that nine times out of ten flashing the software onto the iDrive fixed the problem. I made the weary trek to my local BMW garage, where I bought the car three years ago, knowing full well that this wasn't going to be an easy fix. Does't seem to reset the iDrive on my vehicle. I've tried the 30 second radio button push, and/or with the CD eject pressed. Blank screens, lost preset radio stations. The usual scenario that seems to be littered across the forums. Last year the iDrive began to crash, and since then the probability of it crashing has become more frequent. I know as I write this post I am walking down a very well trodden path.
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